Specificities of Aubercy

Specificities of Aubercy

When you spend so many hours to create an Aubercy shoe, chosing without compromise the most beautiful leatherware of a young calf is obvious. It is also obvious that each movement, aesthetic decision or technique and detail must result in the perfect shoe making.

 

– Leather : Only the greatest French tanneries and some exceptionnal addresses. Finding the perfect balance between durability and thickness of the skin, which are always 12/14mm, and the beauty of the flower which provides the velvety texture and aestethic. The leather of the sole are chosen with the same requirement with « extra slow » tanning. For this reason, and just like a good wine, it’s not rare that an Aubercy shoe reaches its peak after being worn for 10 or 15 years.

– Shoe fitting : Our historical lasts are often re-worked by in-shapers. We are looking for a quality of comfort as much as the aesthetic.

– Width : From the ready-to-wear, and regardless of whether the shape is in-house, we offer 8 different widths.

– Last : From the Special order, or bespoke, a last can be created according to the measurements of each foot.

– Sewing : The seams are made with 5 points per centimeter of pricking. The hole left by the needles is almost invisible. The thread tension is perfect. For great strength, the stitches of the upper are doubled but of great finesse.

– Lining : No junction at the back of the shoe. The junction is unique and lateral. The seams are doubled even if it’s not visible to the naked eye. The internal work is done with the same care as the external work.

– Ornamentation : For the ornamentation, all of our models usually have a flat biding which is technically more difficult than a slip beading. It’s a technique that is usually used for Bespoke.

– Hand lasting : The upper lasting is still done by hand in order to match the shape and provide them the contour that will last a lifetime. They remain for more than a month in their shape of lasting, so that each element finds its perfect placement harmoniously with the shoe.

– Engraving : The sole seams are under etched, in order to protect the thread and for a more refined finish. Round edge in waist are done by hand.

– Roller : The regularity of the milling and the size of the wheel of 12 notching every 2.5 cm gives the Aubercy shoes its unique style.

– Edge width : During the milling of the soles, which is considered a refinement, the edge width are about 3mm

– Finishing : Milling in the throat of the heel. Notching of the sole in a heel tail, the right piece (last layer of leather in the heel) is pegged 7 times.

– Star : The marking of a star in the front of the heel, with a fine wheel of encasement is a marking sign of Aubercy.