The genesis of a pair of shoes is a very complex process, especially when it is created according to the greatest artisanal tradition. At Aubercy, our procedures haven’t changed at all for more than 50 years.
We begin by selecting the most beautiful young calf skins so the grain will maintain all of its beauty even with extensive wear. Our leathers are selected by Philippe Aubercy who looks for animals whose skins are free of any imperfection, and then are prepared in French tanneries.
We cut out the uppers by hand from the heart of the skin. On some models, the finish on the edges is done with the last pin. The uppers are then assembled with double stitching – which has to have the thickness of just one – in order to guarantee that they are totally solid and to preserve their aesthetic appeal. The apron stitches are sewn by hand. Then into this upper are inserted hard toes and leather counters that are also polished and smoothed by hand. The majority of these uppers are constructed from a single piece of skin.
All the uppers are put in place by hand onto wood forms so they contour perfectly with them. They stay there for more than twenty-five days. This artisanal technique gives the shoe an exceptional shape.
When the sole is made with the “Goodyear” technique, the insole (the inner sole the foot rests on inside the shoe) is punched in the flange. The welts (bands of leather than constitute the shoe’s vertebral column) are sewn to the insole entirely by hand. The leather soles undergo a tanning process that is “extra slow” and uses natural vegetable materials.
Aubercy shoes are finished and polished by hand and then verified for quality, pair by pair. In total, more than 390 stages spread out over more than a month of work are necessary to make a pair of shoes by our methods.